Rabbits breeding in pits. Basics of raising rabbits in pits from A to Z

Farming will bring a good annual profit if it is properly organized. It is important not only to choose the right breed of animals, but also to create comfortable conditions for them to live and grow normally.

Breeding rabbits in pits is one of the common ways to raise these animals. It is believed that this form of maintenance requires less financial investment and is convenient not only for the farmer, but also for the livestock.

When the decision to raise rabbits in a pit at home is made, first of all it is necessary to equip a place for keeping them in an area with sufficient sunlight.

Before moving rabbits in, it is necessary to prepare and equip a place for them.

To do this, you will need to dig a hole, observing the following requirements:

Calculate the area of the recess according to the number of animals. For example, a pit measuring 2*2 m can accommodate up to 200 individuals.
The depth of the hole should be 1–1.5 m. This is necessary so that animals, digging holes, do not have the opportunity to bring them to the surface.
Line the walls of the recess with brick or slate to prevent collapse and prevent rabbits from digging holes everywhere.
Raise the edges of the pit using boards, bricks or slate. This will help protect the recess from water flowing inside during rain.
One wall of the pit should remain open; there is no need to line it with bricks. On the same side you will need to dig a small depression, at a height of 20–25 cm from the bottom. This will serve as a guide for the rabbits, and this is where the animals will begin to create nests.
Line the bottom with slats or metal mesh, pouring sand underneath. This is necessary in order to protect the animals' paws from moisture, otherwise they will hurt.

The depth of the pit for rabbits is about 1.5 meters, the length and width are 2 meters each.

To make cleaning easier in areas where rabbits are kept, you can use a little trick: pour cement mortar on the floor at a slight angle. In this case, urine and other moisture will not accumulate at the bottom, but will flow down to one of the walls (it is better to tilt it in the direction opposite to the holes). It is also easier to clean the bottom covered in this way from manure.

Arrangement of the pit

Set up the place where rabbits live in accordance with the following rules:

One wall is reserved for feeders and drinkers. They need to be secured at some elevation from the floor, so that food is accessible to the smallest individuals, but they cannot climb into the container.
The number of drinkers should exceed the number of feeders. This is due to the fact that rabbits consume much more liquid than food.
The bottom is covered with sawdust or lined with straw. However, it is important to remember that such bedding must be changed every day.
The pit needs a roof to protect the animals from bright sun, rain, snow and wind. However, metal should not be used for these purposes; it gets very hot under the sun’s rays, which will create discomfort for the animals.
If possible, a ventilation system is installed in the pit. This can be done by bringing the pipe to the surface.
A fence should be installed around the pit to protect the rabbits from intrusion by other animals.

The walls of the pit for keeping rabbits are covered with slate.

Since it is harmful for livestock to be in the dark, an artificial lighting system should be provided in the pit for winter time, when daylight hours do not last long.

In other cases, pit housing is quite convenient, since in the summer months it is not hot in the pit and not cold in winter. On average, the temperature there almost always stays between 10 and 15 degrees. In addition, the method is convenient because there are no drafts.

However, you should take precautions to protect your rabbits from hypothermia. To do this, you can insulate the walls for the winter using straw.

Settling rabbits

When the living area is ready, the livestock can be placed in the pit. When choosing a breed, it is better to focus on smaller varieties of rabbits, since it is easier for them to adapt to living in such conditions.

Rabbits are allowed only into a pit prepared for them.

The first to move into the pit is young animals, from 4 to 5 months old. Moreover, it is not recommended to release the entire herd at once; it is better to first stock 20–30 individuals, and replant the rest after a few days.

At first, animals may conflict over the division of territory, but this phenomenon is considered normal. After the space is divided between individuals, the rabbits will behave quite peacefully.

In addition, it is better to place animals in the pit that were previously kept in similar conditions, since the individuals that lived in the cages have lost their instincts for digging holes.

What to do if rabbits don't dig holes

What to do in such cases? There are two ways to solve this problem.

Option 1

Dig holes yourself and protect them from collapse by inserting a log inside and lining the hole with clay. The size of the hole should be such that 2-3 individuals can comfortably fit in it.

Option 2

First of all, place rabbits that were previously kept in this way in the pit. More experienced animals will begin to build burrows, which will serve as an example for other, unadapted individuals.

When using the second option, you can purchase experienced rabbits adapted for digging tunnels or rent individuals for several weeks from other breeders.

Catching rabbits in a pit

Rabbits are accustomed to a certain signal, according to which they run out of their holes to feeders.

Since these individuals are capable of digging long tunnels and hide in them at the slightest danger, it will be extremely difficult to catch a disturbed rabbit. In order to solve this problem, you can use small tricks.

Some breeders recommend developing instinctive reactions in animals, for example, The farmer may whistle or clap his hands before feeding the rabbits. This sound will serve as a signal for the animals to leave their holes. When coming for the purpose of catching, you can use sound or whistle to lure the animal out of the hole.

A simpler method that does not require training of individuals is to equip a trap. To do this, a door with a latch is installed, and when the rabbit leaves the hole, this barrier makes it impossible for him to retreat into the tunnel again.

Reference. Since the animal is capable of fierce resistance to those who try to catch it, it is better to use a special net.

Breeding and selection work

Those who are considering breeding rabbits in pits as a business need to study the rules and subtleties of breeding work.

Since, under such living conditions, rabbits exist practically unattended, cases of their random crossing with each other cannot be ruled out. In this situation, the tribe begins to become smaller, which is extremely undesirable. To prevent this problem, it is recommended to change males more often.

It is also necessary to observe the behavior of females. There are cases when female rabbits eat their young. Such an individual must be immediately removed from the herd.

Important. It is not difficult to determine that a female can eat a baby by observing her behavior. Female rabbits, prone to eating their offspring, suddenly lose weight after giving birth, gnaw out the hair on their bodies and take away the hay. If the female behaves this way, there is a high probability that she will begin to eat the cubs.

Rabbits breed uncontrollably in pits, so it is recommended to periodically replace the male.

To make the existence of rabbits in a pit more comfortable and facilitate the process of caring for them, experienced breeders recommend using some tricks:

Putting these tips into practice will make it much easier to care for your livestock and raise healthy rabbits.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

The method of breeding animals in pits has its advantages and disadvantages.

The positive aspects of this method of maintenance include the following factors:

lower financial costs than when breeding animals in cages;
the ability to contain a large number of individuals in a small area;
absence of drafts in the cold season and comfortable existence of animals in the hot months, which has a beneficial effect on their health and reduces the risk of livestock diseases;
living of animals in conditions close to natural and the ability to move freely, which contributes to their higher development;
Caring for animals living in such conditions does not require much time.

Keeping rabbits in a pit is considered the least expensive.

In addition, when keeping rabbits in pits, feed consumption is significantly lower than with cage breeding. Animals also have the opportunity to obtain the minerals they need directly from the earth.

The disadvantages of this breeding method are:

wild animals and difficulties in catching them;
low quality of skins of individuals that are not in the best condition due to frequent fights;
gradual degeneration of offspring due to uncontrolled intra-tribal crossing;
rapid spread of infectious diseases among livestock;
lack of ability to control how well an individual is eating.

However, despite the existing disadvantages, many farmers prefer breeding rabbits in pits to keeping these animals in cages.

Breeding rabbits in pits: reviews from rabbit breeders

Valentina. For a long time I did not dare to raise rabbits, because my garden plot is very small. When I learned about the method of pit farming, I was delighted and immediately decided to try it. I really liked the result, the pit really doesn’t take up much space, but at the same time it can accommodate a large herd. Of course, animal skins from such a lifestyle do not look very good, but I raise rabbits for meat, and the quality of the fur is not important to me.

In the video, the farmer talks about breeding rabbits in a pit and shows his pets kept in this way.

Zinaida. If you keep rabbits in a pit, caring for them is much easier. In addition, animals feel free, lead their usual lifestyle, and therefore easily adapt and get sick less often. Cleaning also does not cause any special problems; it is enough to change the bedding on time, add food and add fresh water.

Victor. I tried raising rabbits in a pit, and I won’t do it again. Animals run wild, are afraid of humans, and catching them becomes a real problem. In addition, it is almost impossible to protect them from rats, and young animals often die as a result of rodent attacks.

In search of a cheap and least labor-intensive way to keep rabbits, rabbit breeders are trying various options for raising rabbits, including in pits. In addition, it is believed that such content is closest to the natural habitat. In this article we will tell you about breeding rabbits in a pit and give recommendations on feeding and treating diseases.

Breeding rabbits in a pit, why is it better and is it really better?

Breeding in a hole differs from other housing options in that the rabbit can independently dig the holes it needs in the ground. In addition, the lifestyle in the pit contributes to the physical activity of the animal.

The burrow of a wild European rabbit, which essentially lives in colonies and digs burrows 40 meters or more in length. Burrows can have up to 8 exits to the surface.

Comparison of the pros and cons of three types of content:

Options	Nora	Aviary	Cell
Physical activity	Eat	Eat	No
Individual diet	No	No	Eat
Skin quality	Not suitable for use	Not suitable for use	good
Weight gain	Better than cellular	Better than cellular	Standard
Loss of young animals	Unknown	Average percentage	Average percentage
Possibility of examining an individual animal	Virtually absent	No difficulty	No difficulty
Breeding	Inability to control; inbreeding	It is easier to catch unwanted rabbits, but the likelihood of inbreeding and uncontrolled reproduction remains	Full control

The theory states that rabbits will not escape from the hole, since they only dig horizontally or downwards. For some reason, theorists stubbornly ignore the fact that the main hole of a rabbit colony, where the dominant male and female live, has from 6 to 8 exits to the outside and goes 2 m deep. It is also not mentioned that practitioners who breed rabbits in pits The holes leading to the surface are periodically filled with concrete.

The theory about rabbits digging holes exclusively downwards or horizontally has failed somewhere, since the main hole of a rabbit colony has 6 - 8 exits to the top. It is unlikely that rabbits have such precise senses to start digging the next entrance from above and accurately get to the tunnel of the hole.

The burrows where young individuals live are shallow and have up to 3 exits to the outside. It also cannot be said that keeping in pits fully corresponds to the natural life of a rabbit. In nature, female rabbits, except for the dominant individual, do not crawl in the main hole. They dig separate burrows not far from the family burrow.

Female rabbits dig shallow holes for giving birth separately from the general colony, covering the entrance to the hole with earth. Such burrows have only one entrance and space for droppings.

What soils are suitable for building a pit?

The soil is divided into:

clay;
loam;
sandy loam;
sand;
lime;
marshy;
black soil;
red soil;
rocky (separate qualification for rabbits).

Each of these types has certain disadvantages and advantages. The rabbits themselves will prefer soil in which it is easy to dig a hole. But it’s easy to dig a hole in the sand, but it crumbles easily, which is not suitable for rabbit breeders. Comparative characteristics of different types of soil:

Priming	pros	Minuses
Clay	The pit and holes will not collapse	It's hard to dig; does not allow water to pass through*
Loam	The pit and holes will not collapse; water goes into the ground; easy to dig	During high water, spring waters will pass into rabbit holes
Sandy loam	Water easily goes into the ground; easy to dig	Prone to collapse; in the spring, water will easily penetrate into the holes
Sand	Digging is very easy; water quickly goes into the ground	It crumbles already in the process of digging a hole; easily passes water from top to bottom and bottom to top during spring floods
Chernozem	Easy to dig, holds the burrow arches well; passes water well	Typically this layer is no more than 50 cm thick; there may be clay or sand underneath
Krasnozem	Partly analogous to chernozem with a large amount of iron	Just like black soil, this layer is thin
Marshy	Easy to dig; holds vaults well due to the abundance of plant debris	As a rule, it is located in lowlands, flooded with rain and floods.
Lime	Digging is easier than clay, but more difficult than loam; holds the arch well	The disadvantages are almost the same as those of clay with the only difference: water can wash away the calcareous soil
Rocky	From a rabbit's point of view, there are no advantages if the piles of stones do not lie on the surface; in this case, the rabbit does not dig holes, but hides in the stones	From a human point of view, there are also some disadvantages: usually the stones are mixed with clay and the soil does not allow water to pass through well; if it is a solid rock mass, then flooding of the pit is inevitable during rains

*The property of clay not to allow water to pass through has a twofold characteristic. If the clay does not allow water to enter the hole, this is a plus. If water gets into the hole and because of the clay it cannot go into the ground, this is a minus, since the rabbits will die.

Tip #1. Before you start building a pit, wait until spring and find out how high the groundwater will rise during a flood.

How to build a rabbit breeding pit

To construct a pit you will need:

shovels, hoe, possibly other tools that can be used to loosen or grab soil;
slate or other roofing material;
metal grid;
wooden slats for drainage on the floor;
again slate or bricks for lining the walls of the pit.

Diagram of a pit structure protected from rain and predators. The earthen wall for the hole is left on one side only.

Choosing a location and building a pit with step-by-step instructions

Having the building materials and tools available, you can begin building the pit itself:

We choose a place on a hill that is not flooded during spring floods. It is advisable that groundwater does not rise above 1.5 m from the surface of the earth;
We mark a 2x2 m square and dig a hole 1 m deep;
We line the dug hole with brick or slate from the inside to prevent the walls from collapsing. We leave one wall unclad;
We begin to dig a hole for rabbits in the unlined wall. We dig it out the entire length of a shovel or hoe. Later the rabbits will dig up. The slope of the workpiece should be down to prevent animals from digging out of the pit;
After designing the future hole, we put a damper at the entrance. If the rabbits later dig more holes, they should also be equipped with shutters*;
We fence the top of the pit with a net to prevent the penetration of predators (it will not help against rats);
We make a canopy of roofing material over the pit to protect the pit from rain;
At the bottom of the pit we make a grating for urine drainage;
We place a sufficient number of feeders. Feeders should be installed taking into account rabbits of different ages, that is, at different heights and different sizes. Read also the article: → "".
We install drinking bowls;
Let's release the rabbits.

*The dampers are needed so that you don’t have to smoke the rabbits out of the hole with smoke bombs.

Another diagram of the pit structure, “outside view”. In this case, the pit is completely lined with slate. A hole was left in one of the walls for digging a hole. In such a hole it is easier to control the entrance to the hole (one shutter is enough).

Tip #2. If in the spring it turns out that the groundwater is too close to the surface, then there is no point in building a hole. The essence of a hole is that it is buried in the ground, and when draining it is necessary to either raise the ground level or lay drainage ditches. Both are too expensive for amateur rabbit breeding. In this case, it is better to build an enclosure for the rabbits.

What breeds of rabbits are suitable for keeping in a pit?

When choosing a rabbit breed, not only their cold resistance is taken into account, but also the region in which the rabbits are supposed to be bred. Rabbits can winter in pits in climatic zones up to the central regions of Russia. To the north, you will have to catch rabbits and place them in cages indoors for the winter.

The choice will have to be made from the breeds that are most popular among amateurs, but not all of them are suitable for living in pits. Large breeds are not very suitable for pits due to their weight, and some medium-sized ones are too thermophilic. Comparative characteristics of rabbits when choosing a breed for pit breeding:

Breed	Average weight, kg	Thermophilia	Adaptability to pit conditions
Gray giant	More than 5	Capable of living in the middle zone, but not further north	Large sizes are not suitable for pit conditions
Californian	4,5	Heat-loving; does not withstand winter cold well	Can be kept in a pit during the warm season
Burgundian	4,5	Average adaptability to cold; does not tolerate heat well	In summer, the pit is ideal for maintenance; in winter, depending on the climate in a particular area
Rex	4	Cold-loving, optimal temperature for keeping - +15°C	Year-round living in a pit
Soviet chinchilla	More than 5	Relatively thermophilic	Due to its large size, it is not suitable for a pit
New Zealand	4,5	Heat-loving	In summer it will take root well in a hole; for the winter you need to move it to a warm room

A Rex rabbit will overwinter well in a pit and will also thank you, since these rabbits tolerate frosts down to -20 and very well tolerate temperatures above +25 degrees.

Mistakes when keeping rabbits in a pit

Using smoke bombs to catch extra individuals. Toxic substances have not yet had a positive effect on any organism.
Convincing cage-free advocates that vaccinations are not necessary. The position is no different from the position of parents who refuse to vaccinate their children. The infection does not care whether the rabbit lives in a cage, in an enclosure or in a pit. As long as the livestock lives in isolation, one may think that infections are not terrible. But as soon as an infected animal enters the herd, the spread of infection will be facilitated by free contacts between rabbits.
Belief in the myth that rats in pits are not dangerous for rabbits. Even if rabbits are really capable of driving away rats (and the number of newborn rabbits eaten by rats in the pit cannot be determined), it is not the attacks on rabbits that rats are dangerous for. You can not be afraid of rats as much as you like and can easily become infected with leptospirosis, myxomatosis and rabies from rats.

Questions that arise when keeping rabbits in a pit

Question No. 1. We have rats in our rabbit pit, how can we get them out?

If you managed to see such a cautious nocturnal animal as a rat, it means that the population of rats in your pit significantly exceeds the population of rabbits. Or the rat you noticed was sick. In any case, to kill rats you will have to:

Catch all the rabbits from the pit and place them in cages;
Scatter poison with a delayed effect in the pit, since with fast-acting poison, rats quickly figure out what’s going on and stop eating the bait;
A week later, remove the found rat corpses and spread the poison again;
Repeat step 3 until the bait remains untouched and the smell of carrion stops coming out of the holes;
Thoroughly clean the hole from any remaining poison and hope that the rats did not drag anything into the holes;
Throw the rabbits back into the hole.

Question No. 2. How can you disinfect a pit?

Almost nothing using conventional means. You can catch the entire population of rabbits living in the hole, and then throw sulfur smoke bombs into the holes. What gets disinfected gets disinfected. If the smoke doesn't reach somewhere, you're out of luck.

Question No. 3. How and with what to treat rabbits in a pit if they get sick?

Nothing and nothing. Before treatment, a sick rabbit must be caught. And the treatment should be carried out separately from the rest of the livestock, placing it in a cage, according to the scheme prescribed by the veterinarian. The only thing that can be done en masse in a pit is deworming of animals. The anthelmintic in powder form is added to the feed and mixed. It’s also not very reliable in the sense that someone will receive an insufficient dose, and someone will receive an overdose, but it’s better than nothing.

Question No. 4. Do I need to put cages in the pit?

With a recommended pit area of 4 m², nothing else will fit in it except a couple of cages. Therefore, cages in the pit are not needed. For female rabbits at the lower levels of the hierarchy, queen cells can be placed, since the dominant individual can drive them out of the hole.

Question No. 5. How to feed pregnant rabbits in a pit?

Just like everyone else. In a pit it is impossible to establish individual diets for single female rabbits, males and pregnant females.

Breeding rabbits can be a very profitable business. The fact is that this niche of the domestic market is still practically unoccupied. The reason is, most likely, that our compatriots for a long time considered rabbit meat to be waste and did not buy it very willingly. However, recently, due to the desire of many to lead a healthy lifestyle, interest in this product has increased (as has its cost). After all, many people know that rabbit meat is dietary and also very tasty.

How to organize a farm and save money

According to most experts, breeding rabbits in a pit is the simplest and cheapest technology. All that is needed to organize such a farm is to purchase or rent a small plot of land. Each dug hole can house up to 200 rabbits. According to most rabbit breeders, cleaning with this method of keeping is somewhat more difficult than with an enclosure, but much easier than with a cage. Procedures such as feeding and watering will also be simplified as much as possible in this case.

How to register a new business

Thus, breeding rabbits in pits as a business can become a business that is not too expensive at first, not particularly troublesome, and at the same time very profitable. Registration of rabbit farms, like any other agricultural enterprises, is usually carried out as a peasant farm. There are good reviews about this type of business, including because the state has recently been paying a lot of attention to the development of livestock and crop farms. In any case, the procedure for registering a new enterprise is unlikely to be too complicated.

Some beginning rabbit farmers register simply as an individual entrepreneur. With any of these two forms of enterprise organization, taxes can be paid either according to the usual or simplified scheme. Among other things, in our country at the moment, beginning farmers are often provided with financial support. True, the amount you can get is only a very small one (about 50-60 thousand rubles).

Where to start organizing the farm itself

According to most rabbit breeders, the success of an enterprise of such specialization primarily depends on the correct choice of site. It is best if the farm is located near a city. In this case, it is easier to find markets for meat. But the distance from the farm to the populated area, according to the standards, should not be too close either. This should be taken into account when choosing land. Also, when searching for a suitable plot, experienced farmers advise keeping in mind the following points:

When the level of groundwater is high, breeding rabbits in a pit becomes impossible. Under no circumstances should burrows be allowed to become flooded.
The environmental situation around the site should be as favorable as possible.
The area you like should have a suitable soil composition. Rabbits dig very well. However, if the soil is very dense, clayey or rocky, the animals will refuse to build minks.

Once the site has been selected, you can begin digging holes for the rabbits. Of course, such housing for animals must be equipped correctly. And actually breeding rabbits in a pit at home will have some nuances.

What should the hole be like?

The shape of such underground “dwellings” for rabbits, according to experienced fur breeders, can be any shape. Pits are dug round, rectangular and even triangular. The main thing is that their area is approximately 2 m2, and their depth is at least 1 m. Rabbits placed in a hole quickly get used to it and begin to dig holes. If the hole is too shallow, based on various signs (presence of roots, seeds, etc.), the animals will very quickly guess that “freedom” is nearby, dig a hole and run away. If the entrances are located at a depth of at least 1 m, the animals will begin to dig horizontal or even slightly downward burrows. In general, this activity is quite safe in terms of losing pets with the right approach - breeding rabbits in a pit. The diagram of the pit is presented below for clarity.

The length of rabbit passages can reach 20-40 m. Moreover, they are usually very branched. However, there is no need to be afraid that animals will undermine the foundations of any buildings or damage the roots of fruit trees. These animals are not that strong.

How to equip a farm

Breeding rabbits in pits as a business will be successful only if the animals are provided with good living conditions. Small wooden structures with a roof should be installed over freshly dug holes. This will prevent rain and snow, as well as various kinds of predatory animals, from entering inside. Three sides of each pit are usually lined with slate. This is not necessary, but may prevent uncontrolled burrowing. Feeders and drinking bowls are installed along the closed walls.

At the bottom of the dug holes, be sure to pour a layer of sand at least 20 cm thick. Subsequently, it will absorb urine, which will prevent the appearance of an unpleasant odor and the spread of infection. A net should be laid on the sand. This will make cleaning easier later.

Breeding rabbits in a pit: reviews from farmers

Of course, a novice entrepreneur should know about all the pros and cons of keeping pit animals. How do experienced rabbit breeders feel about this technique? There are different reviews about pit breeding. Fur farmers are usually very conservative people. And although the pit method is the most ancient technology for breeding rabbits, many are in no hurry to switch to it. The fact is that over the past few decades, the cage method of keeping these animals has been mainly practiced in all countries of the world. Many farmers are simply accustomed to raising rabbits this way. The pit method of breeding is used mainly by young beginner fur farmers who decided to save money or simply conduct a small experiment in order to find out the advantages and disadvantages of this technology. Be that as it may, many people find many advantages in this growing method.

Pros of technology

The advantages of this method of raising rabbits in a pit, in addition to being cheap, many farmers include:

Rapid growth and weight gain in animals. Rabbits are very active animals. They feel oppressed in cells and therefore develop more slowly. In the pit, these animals feel relatively free and do not experience any stress.
Lower morbidity rate. The most favorable microclimate is created in the pit for rabbits. It's warm here in winter, cool in summer. Drafts are excluded by definition. Therefore, pit rabbits almost never catch a cold. The risk of developing infectious diseases in this case is also small. The main carriers of infection in rabbit farms are insects. Neither flies nor mosquitoes penetrate into the pit.
Easy to care for. The bottom of the pit should be cleaned approximately 1-2 times a week. In this case, you can use a regular shovel.

The main disadvantage of the method

Opponents of such technology as breeding rabbits in pits consider its main disadvantage to be the impossibility of controlling the reproduction of animals. The owners of such farms have to take additional measures to prevent the degeneration of the herd. After all, everyone knows that incest between rabbits is extremely undesirable.

To avoid the birth of very small and non-viable rabbits, it is necessary to change the manufacturer once every six months. Some farmers leave teenage males in pits. Their number usually does not affect fertility. The fact is that in rabbits, the dominant male usually castrates his competitors on his own. But sometimes this still doesn't happen. If an “extra” active, pugnacious and overly plump rabbit, actively interested in females, is noticed in the pit, it should be removed immediately. To eliminate the risk of degeneration, experienced rabbit breeders also advise completely changing the herd once every few years.

How to catch rabbits

Breeding rabbits in a pit (the diagram of such a dwelling clearly shows the simplicity of its arrangement) has another small disadvantage. The fact is that catching animals in this case is quite difficult. In pits, rabbits very quickly become accustomed and even become slightly wild. Therefore, it is sometimes necessary to use special devices for catching. The simplest one is a shield on a rope above the entrance to the hole. In some cases, special valve-type devices are also used. If trapping is necessary, they are installed in front of the entrance to the hole. Rabbits can go through them to the outside, but not back in.

But more often than not, all fur farmers advise simply trying to organize a catch based on a conditioned reflex. Most often, this is a regular calling whistle from the owner when feeding.

Animal diseases

Rabbits, the breeding and keeping of which in pits can become a quite profitable business, unfortunately, are not very disease-resistant animals. Therefore, according to all farmers without exception, epidemics are a very serious danger with this method of cultivation. After all, in this case there is no way to isolate sick rabbits from the herd. So if any infection does get into the pit, the losses will be colossal. Most likely, all the rabbits will die. Therefore, it is imperative to monitor the quality of feed and the cleanliness of the animals’ “home”.

Animals are usually released into the pit for the first time at the age of 3-4 months. Of course, the animals must first be vaccinated. This is one of the basic rules of such a procedure as raising rabbits in pits. Diseases and treatment of pets in this case can become a very serious problem indeed.

Even if one rabbit dies in the pit, this can cause concern for the farm owners. After all, it will be simply impossible to get and bury the carcass. However, as many rabbit breeders say, the animals usually arrange a “funeral” themselves. Animals simply tightly bury the hole in which their fellow died.

Feeding rabbits in a pit

Experienced fur breeders recommend making a normal diet for animals bred in this way. That is, animals need to be given crushed barley (sometimes oatmeal), hay, branches and root vegetables. In summer the grass is fed in a dried state. It is better not to throw hay and branches on the ground, but to hang them in holes on ropes so that rabbits can reach them.

Breeding rabbits in a pit

The inability to control reproduction, as already mentioned, is considered the main disadvantage of such technology as breeding rabbits in pits. Photos of quite happy animals living in such “dwellings” in huge numbers, however, can be seen on this page. Despite the fact that controlled matings are impossible with this method of keeping, the reproduction of rabbits in a pit in most cases is a completely successful process. With timely replacement of sires, the herd will increase very quickly and without loss of inherent qualities of the breed. The females themselves throw the stillborn cubs out of the hole into the pit. No cleaning of the nest is required after the baby rabbits grow up. Queens never give birth in the same burrow twice. Moreover, they bury the old one tightly.

Pit with access to an enclosure: how to make it

This method of breeding animals is also practiced by rabbit breeders and is considered potentially very successful. In this case, a hole is dug right in the enclosure. There is a gentle descent into it (no steeper than 45 degrees) with a ladder. The steps of the latter should have a very small height. Otherwise, the cubs will not be able to get out. Breeding rabbits in a pit with access to an enclosure is a little more expensive, but in this case it is more convenient to care for the animals and catch them.

Breeding rabbits is an interesting and exciting, but at the same time troublesome activity.

Since ancient times, our ancestors have been raising rabbits. Having no idea about possible devices for holding these pets, they We created the most natural conditions for them: They dug a hole and placed several families of rabbits there, giving them food and water. At the same time, the animals independently arranged conditions for their development and reproduction. But as this type of activity develops, breeding rabbits in pits is used less and less. This article provides a drawing and detailed instructions for choosing a place for a pit and arranging it with your own hands.

The positive aspects of this growing method

benefit in material terms;
occupied territory where rabbits are kept - small in size (even when keeping a large number of livestock);
time saving and physical strength;
increased immunity and animal resistance to diseases;
getting additional nutrients directly from the soil;
improved and accelerated breeding process(with this type of maintenance, maternal instinct is developed at the highest level in females);
reducing the amount needed stern;
optimal approaching natural conditions existence;
with a large population it becomes possible do-it-yourself rat control;
improved taste of meat.

Disadvantages are considered

inbreeding(inbreeding), which subsequently leads to degeneration of the offspring;
inability to control animal diet depending on age;
difficulty of control mating process;
wild animals(alienation from people);
impossibility of selling skins, as a result of damage during fights between rabbits;
complexity rabbit isolation when a disease occurs;
impossibility of growing using this method, rabbits with valuable fur or large breed rabbits.

How to choose the right place for a pit and equip it with your own hands: drawing, detailed instructions

The place where the hole is dug should be in the shade and placed on a hill to avoid flooding the hole with water. To control reproduction, it is worth setting up a second pit for females. who will be selected for breeding, their babies and the breeding male. The pits are located at a distance of 20 meters or more from each other. Don't worry if there are trees, basements or wells near the chosen location for the pit, because they will not harm your pets in any way.

The size of the hole depends on the number of heads; for 100 or 200 individuals it is necessary to dig a hole 2x2 in size and at least 1 meter deep (preferably 1.5 m).

By shape pits come in different shapes, usually using a rectangular shape.

Now you need to treat the walls of the pit, for this you can choose any material (the best option is slate leaves), it will not be chewed by rabbits. We process three walls completely, we also fence the fourth, but at the same time leave a hole that will serve as the entrance to the hole. The entrance needs some digging(down or straight, but not up) so that the rabbit understands where it needs to dig.

The bottom of the hole must be covered with sand.- about 20 cm. And lay a fine flat mesh on top. In this case, urine will easily enter the soil, feces will be easy to collect with a shovel, and the mesh will not allow rabbits to dig additional holes. Additionally, the bottom is covered with straw, which must be changed from time to time. The best option for the required number of cleanings would be 1 cleaning per few days or per week.

You need to place a canopy over the hole with a slope in the opposite direction from the entrance to the hole. A good option would be to fence the pit, which will protect the animals from predators and dogs.

We install a door at the entrance to the hole, feeders and drinking bowls (in sufficient quantities) along one wall. They must be suitable in size for both adult rabbits and babies. Now we can launch the rabbits.

How to choose the right breed

Let's look at some breeds and compare how suitable each of them is for this method of keeping rabbits.

Breed	Average weight, kg	Temperature perception	Adaptability to the pit
Californian	4,5	Heat-loving, does not tolerate winter well	For the winter it is better to move it to a barn
Burgundian	4,5	Tolerates heat worse than cold	In summer the pit is very useful, in winter - comparatively
Rex	4,0	Optimal temperature +15	Can live year-round
Soviet chinchilla	5 or more	Relatively thermophilic	Not suitable due to weight
New Zealand	4,5	Heat-loving	In winter it is better to move from the pit to warmth
Gray giant	5 or more	Unable to live north of the Middle Zone	Poor considering the weight

Home breeding of rabbits in pits is considered to be as comfortable as possible for the animals. This is explained by the fact that in their natural environment the animals live in burrows. Considering the experience of experienced rabbit breeders, we can confidently say that the technology is one of the most suitable for raising eared rabbits at home. In this article we will talk about the key features of this method, as well as how to make a hole yourself. Let's consider which soil is suitable for development and which is not.

Key features of the method

When keeping rabbits in a pit, the technology is aimed, first of all, at increasing the endurance of the animals. When using other breeding systems, for example, cage or shad, despite timely vaccination and proper care, the death of animals for one reason or another cannot be ruled out. By returning the eared animals to their natural conditions, it becomes possible to increase resistance to epidemics and infections.

In addition, based on the experience of farmers, we can say that when raising rodents using the pit method, the taste characteristics of meat improve.

The pit method involves constructing a hole of a suitable size, releasing breeding animals into it, timely feeding and catching the animals. At first glance, this method is the simplest and most convenient for growing eared animals at home.

Advantages of the method

First, let's determine the advantages of pit breeding rabbits. Beginning rabbit breeders are attracted to the method due to its minimal financial costs. In fact, the costs will only be associated with the purchase of breeding rabbits and the purchase of food for them.

A rabbit pit saves money, space and time. A standard pit measuring 2x2 m comfortably accommodates a herd of about 200 heads. At the same time, pit maintenance is much simpler and easier compared to other methods.

Reproduction when raising rabbits in holes in pits is much more active. When these animals are placed in conditions as close as possible to natural conditions, their sexual desire increases, and the number of animals increases in record time. It is much easier for female rabbits to realize their maternal instinct in a pit, so the survival rate of the offspring is high.

In addition, raising rabbits in this way is especially profitable if the goal is to obtain high-quality meat.

Disadvantages of the method

It's time to talk about the difficulties you will face if you decide to raise rabbits in a pit. The main disadvantages include:

the difficulty of vaccinating animals (this increases the risk of infection of the entire herd);
the owner cannot determine the number of rabbits on the farm;
it is impossible to control the process of mating, which leads to incest (this causes the reduction of livestock);
Giant breeds cannot be raised this way;
Eared beetles run wild, catching becomes more difficult over time;
It is impossible to monitor the condition of rabbits and timely isolate individuals with signs of disease.

Skin and meat-hide breeds are not raised in burrows - when animals move along earthen passages, the fur gets worn down and loses quality. We’ll talk in more detail below about which lines should be preferred when growing using pit technology.

Where to start

Breeding should begin by determining the location of the future pit for rabbits. The optimal soil is clay or a mixture of clay and chernozem. If the soil is sandy, the risk of spontaneous tunnel collapses increases, leading to the death of animals. But rocky rocks are also not suitable - it will be extremely difficult for animals to dig holes in them.

It is worth considering the depth of groundwater. If they are located close, the holes will flood. In addition, rabbits, sensing the proximity of water, will change the direction of digging holes, making them horizontal and directed towards the surface. As a result, it will not be possible to avoid a mass escape of eared animals.

Another unsuitable option for arranging a pit is a slope. Considering that the average length of a rabbit hole is 15 m, it is logical that the hill will be dug right through.

Another sign of the unsuitability of a place is the degree of soil freezing. You can find the indicator in regional directories. Rabbits cannot remain in subzero temperatures for a long period of time and simply die. In this case, it is not a certain type of soil that is unsuitable, but the climatic features of the region.

Choosing a breed

There are certain requirements for the breed of rabbits itself, which is planned to be raised in a pit. You should immediately abandon hybrids and other complex lines that require increased attention from the breeder. The best option is a domestic breed, adapted to living in certain climatic conditions.

The description of the Soviet chinchilla breed also indicates the adaptability of its representatives to negative temperatures, but given the large dimensions of adult individuals, you should not opt for this line.

How to properly arrange

Each owner digs and arranges a pit for rabbits according to his own design. There are no clear instructions on this issue. We will focus on the main points.

To set up a pit for rabbits with your own hands, you will need the following materials - slate or boards, metal mesh, cages, feeders.

The work process itself consists of the following stages:

first they make a 3x3 m deepening, 2.5 m deep (given the large dimensions of the pit, if possible, you can use equipment);
the bottom is covered with a metal mesh, which will prevent the digging of additional holes and facilitate cleaning the hole;
the side walls can be additionally reinforced with slate or boards in order to prevent arbitrary soil collapses;
along one of the walls you need to install cages for rabbits - they will serve as additional feeders and for catching animals;
feeders are installed perpendicular to the cages on the wall - separately for each type of food, as well as drinking bowls;
On the free wall, at a height of about 10 cm from the bottom, we make small depressions that will serve as a kind of beacons for the animals - continuing them, the rabbits will dig holes.

The bottom of the pit, covered with a net, must be covered with sand - the layer thickness is about 20 cm. Straw or another type of bedding is laid on top. This approach will not only make it easier to clean the place where the eared animals are kept, but will also protect their paws from injury on the metal mesh.

You cannot leave the pit completely open - rabbits need additional protection from predators, bad weather and scorching sun rays. Therefore, a canopy must be built on top, the entrance to which is located on the opposite side from the location of the holes.

Check-in rules

Rabbits raised in cages cannot simply be transferred to a pit - this will be a huge stress for the animals. For breeding livestock, young individuals aged 4-5 months are selected. If possible, you need to buy breeding males and females from breeders who practice the pit method of breeding. Such eared animals are maximally adapted to living in burrows.

Rabbits are bred at the rate of 5-7 females per male. At first, fights are not excluded - this is a completely normal process, which is explained by the division of territory. Over time, the fights will disappear.

Before being put into a pit, rabbits need to have all the necessary vaccinations. In addition, a course of antibiotics can be given as a preventative measure. This will help avoid colds associated with sudden changes in microclimate.

The best time to populate a hole is the second half of spring, when the outside air temperature has already reached positive temperatures around the clock.

How to protect yourself from the cold

Rabbits in a pit in winter may suffer from cold, which can cause death. To avoid the negative consequences of negative temperatures, the canopy is insulated with any available materials - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, straw or corn stalks.

Breeding rabbits in a pit forces you to take care of ventilation - the lack of fresh air is no less destructive for rabbits than frost.

You can install additional lighting in the pit using lamps that heat the air well. Special heated drinking bowls have also proven themselves well in this case.

Comfortable air temperature for a rabbit in a hole is 15-18 degrees Celsius. Therefore, in the pit room the thermometer should not fall below +10. In regions characterized by harsh winters, it is better to move animals to a warm room during this period.

For more information on how to protect your little ears from the winter cold, read the article “Is it possible to keep rabbits outside in winter?”

Awakening instincts

Digging holes is a completely natural process for eared animals. But in rabbits that have been kept in cages for several generations, this instinct can “fall asleep.” In this case, the breeder’s main task is to wake him up.

The easiest way is to purchase a couple of rabbits raised in a hole. Experienced individuals will begin to dig tunnels, and the rest of the herd will follow their example. Experienced “shrews” can even be rented for a short period from a farmer you know.

If it is not possible to hire experienced shrews, then you need to try to dig a hole for the eared shrews with your own hands. To do this, dig a hole in the wall of the hole using a shovel. In order to strengthen the walls, you can make cladding using a log of a suitable size. Just select a piece of wood of a suitable diameter and use it to compact the walls of the hole well.

The length of the hole should be such that 3-4 individuals can be placed in it. You can cover the farthest corner with straw or hay, this will make the recess more attractive to rabbits.

Over time, natural instincts will awaken in the ears, and they will begin to independently create long tunnels. Then the problem of catching animals for slaughter will arise.

Resolving the issue with catching

Rabbits are shy animals, and keeping them using pit technology contributes to complete feralization. Therefore, catching rabbits for meat is extremely difficult.

Some rabbit breeders who practice pit keeping rabbits at home literally smoke the animals out of their shelters. But blowing smoke into burrows is too aggressive a method that negatively affects the health of eared animals, so it is better to abandon it.

It is much more humane and rational to install a damper on the holes. A thin sheet of wood or metal is suitable as a door. Which will move easily on special runners. You just need to think carefully about securing the valve in the open state - it should be possible to lower it quickly and silently.

It is best to start catching rabbits when the maximum number of them comes out of the hole to feed. To do this, you can try to develop an artificial reflex in them - before each feeding, give a certain sound signal. This could be whistling or clapping hands. Animals will quickly remember the sequence of actions and, upon hearing the call, will run to the feeders.

Rats control

Rabbit farming, like other areas of economic activity, has its enemies from the wild. When raising rabbits in a pit, the enemies are rats, which can eat the offspring, spread infections and destroy the lion's share of the food intended for the ears.

Installing rat traps and adding poison are unacceptable, since there is a very high risk that not rats, but rabbits will suffer.

For rodent pests, you can prepare a special bait. Take a thin glass of an ordinary light bulb and carefully crush it. The fragments are mixed with boiled eggs and onions - in this combination the mixture becomes especially fragrant for rats. The mass is wrapped in paper and bait is placed in places where pests have been spotted.

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